Monte Alban
Before leaving " Hieve El Agua ", a little 1 hour treck takes us around the site. It's pleasant but nothing extraordinary except the view over the moutains.
On the way to " Monte Alban ", our GPS, not knowning we drive a 6.5 m long camper, takes us through narrow roads, where it's impossible to cross an other vehicule.
Once on the site, we see a large road leading to Oaxaca, wide enough for buses!!!
On the top of the hill, overlooking Oaxaca, " Monte Alban " was the largest zapotèque city.
It's been registered as a world heritage site by UNESCO in 1987
The top of the hill has been excaveted to build this ceremonial site.
It's long history begins in 500 BC, with the Olmeques and became then in 200 BC a zapoteque city.
The city ruled the cultural, religious and economical life up to 750 AD, before beeing submitted by " Teotihuacan ".
During that classical period, it is recognizred as one of the most famous mesoamerican capital city.
* Los Danzantes : Several sculptures showing men in strange tortured postures... maybe war prisonners.
* Plaza Central : It's the center of this ancient city housing 9 tombs and delimited by two big platforms : one in the north the other in the south.
We stay another couple of days in " El Tule ", waiting for a 110/220 w converter we're ordered by internet
Tlaculula * Hieve Del Agua
" The Tlaculuta valley " is known since the 7th century BC as a historical and cultural center.
We visit several sites in this valley.
* San Jeronimo Tlascochahuaya : The church of the village was part of dominican convent. Its inside decoration is the work of zapoteque artisans.
* Dainzu : The ancient zapoteque site keeps a little pyramid and beautiful tombs decorated with nice bas-reliefs. As usual, we are the only one in this site.
* Yagul : Located an top of a hill, this ancient town built by the zapoteque, has been occupied by the azteque. We've loved this site divided in 2 parts : the lower part call " Acropoli " with its palaces and 6 patios and the upper part " The fortress " offering a nice view over the valley.
* Mitla : Great zapoteque city after the decline of " Monte Alban " which then became a mixteque city. Most of the monuments are decored with geometric little brick mosaics. A " catholic church " have pride of place in the center of this site
We end our valley trip with " Hieve El Agua ". Little hot water spings, very rich in chalk are at the origin of 2 large petrified cascades. It's a very touristic place which attracts mexican for a hot tubs bath.
A huge thumderstown end the day.
Coixtlahuaca * Yanhuitlan * Oaxaca
We take the " Mixteca Alta ", a route whose name means " People from the Clouds ".
It's a way to discover the first example of the colonial architecture.
* Coixatlahuaca : Beautiful church built by the dominicans, over the ruins of an ancient mixteque temple. This church has an " open chapel ", used to evangelize the indians in the openair.
* Yanhuitlan : It's a dominican monastery built between 1550 and 1575, once again over a prehispanic temple. It's quite disappointing as the restoration looks too modern with tadelakt walls.
End of the afternoon we fix our bivouac for a few days in " El Tule ", in a superb camping to explore the surroundings
Oaxaca
" Oaxaca " is located in the south of Mexico, amid 4 valleys surrounded by 3 chains of mountains.
It was founded in 1521 by the spanish.
In 1529, Hernan Cortes has been deposed, but received in compensation the title of " Marquis de Oaxaca " and large land properties in that state.
The city has got 16th century couvents, baroque churches and colonial buldings
It's a world heritage city since 1987.
The city is known for its social and political demontrations since the seventies.
We start our visit in the historical center.
* Catedral : Built in the 18th century, on an ancient construction destructed by several eathquakes. It's got a bronze altar made in Italy.
* Iglesia de Santo Domingo : Its construction started in 1572 by dominicans under the demand of Cortes to convert the indians It was archieved only 2 centuries later and cost 12 millions of golden pesos. It's interior is sparkling, covered with golden covered stucs. It's a mix of gothic, roman, baroque and mauresque style. A jewel that we visited twice.
* Centro Cultural Santo Domingo : In the old convent of the iglesia , this cultural center hosts a museum, a botanic garden, a library and a book store. Here we find part of the " Monte Alban " treasure (extremely fine mixteque jewelery) The museum offers an archeological, historical and ethnological panorama. Great museum.
* Museo Raffino Tamayo : In a nice little 18th century house is exposed the private collection of the artist : Precolombian art. Incredibly rich collection. One of the most beautiful museums in Mexico.
We wander during 2 days in these animated streets with coloured houses.
During our stay, we met a french family from " La Grande Motte " travelling like us in a camper since 2015.
We spent 4 days together and had great fun. So it was hard to say goodbye.
We're now at the beginning of the rainy season and even if the temperatures overtake 30 degrees during the day, violent storms refresh the atmosphere every evening.
Tehuacan
The grand tour of the north and south colonial cities is now over and we now arrive into the " Oaxaca " region.
The oaxacan valley is the birth place of the prehispanic zapoteque civilisation, the oldest one in the country. it dominated the region during centuries before leaving it to the " Mixteques ", the " Azteques " and finally to the spanish colonization.
On the way to " Oaxaca ", we make a stop in " Tehuacan " (which is not worth the detour)
ROAD BOOK 052
MAVROS ODYSSEE
