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Merida
The other seaside resorts being invaded by "Sargasses" we realize that our plans to stay on a beach under coconut trees is now just a dream.
We head to "Mérida" where we find a superb campsite in the shaded garden of a hotel,10 minutes walking from the city center.
"Mérida" is the capital city of the state of Yucatán.
The conquistadors entered the city of "Tho" in 1542.
Its archictecture reminded them of the Roman vestiges of Mérida in Spain and gave it that name.
Its growth and architectural grandeur are intimately linked to the explosion of the henequén (or sisal) trade, this fibre derived from a variety of agaves.
In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the peninsula developed this industry through a system of haciendas inherited from Spanish feudalism. It then supplied the whole planet with ship ropes.
The Mexican Revolution and then the arrival of synthetic fibres were to put an end to the golden age of the hacendaderos.
Mérida’s nickname is « the white city » "ciudad blanca". The city was originally separated and isolated from Indian neighborhoods to protect the Spaniards, "the white", from a possible Mayan rebellion!!
The main monuments are concentrated around the Plaza Mayor.
* Catedral: the oldest in America built between 1560 and 1598 with stones from the Mayan site.
* Casa de Montejo: palace built in the 16th century for the first governors with a richly decorated facade depicting conquistadors walking over cut off heads.
* Palacio de Gobierno: palace housing large "Murals" representing the history of Yucatan, from the first Mayas to the present day.
* Gran Museo del Mundo Maya: The aim of this museum is to raise awareness of the past and today’s Mayan culture through a dynamic and interactive museography.
We stay a few days in this pretty city with a festive atmosphere.
Almost every evening a show is organized on the "Zocalo"
* a representation of the "Juego de Pelota" that makes us understand the rules,
* folkroric dances
* a sound and light show.
On Sunday, part of the city is for pedestrians and bicycles, especially on the "Paseo Montejo", long and chic avenue lined with sumptuous mansions.
North of the city we visit " Dzibilchaltun "
The emblematic construction of the site is called the "Templo de las Munecas" in reference to seven terracotta statuettes discovered by archaeologists in the 1950s.
Included in the exorbitant entrance price, this site also has a cenote in which it is possible to bathe.
A rip-off: this cenote or "sacred well" according to the Mayas is a duck pond filled with water lillies and fishes. Its water is black. Noway we’re gonna swim in there.
We were so much looking forward to cool down there… Maybe in next one…
Celestun
The weather forecast for the next days predicts the same burning temperatures .
We decide to go to the seaside, hoping to find some cooler air and no "Sargasses"
Our choice is "Celestun" where there shouldnt be any of these seaweeds.
Along the way we visit the hacienda "Yaxcopoil" or "place of green poplars"
A beautiful Moorish-style arch points out this large hacienda of sisal, a plant of the agave family, that was the origin of the great fortunes of the Yucatan.
The engine room and its mechanical grater, the house of the masters, the chapel and the garden make up this property of the 19th century. All the displayed furniture is original in this old but still absolutely magnificent palace.
The campsite we chose turns out to be more or less abandoned, not maintained and without much shade.
We spend the day there, but it will be the only one.
Campeche
The night has been warm with no air.
"San Francisco de Campeche" or "nice person" has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999.
This fortified city, bordered by the Gulf of Mexico, was one of the first Spanish cities in Mexico.
The city was founded by Francisco de Montejo "El Mozo", the son of the first conqueror of the peninsula.
The city soon became an important port of call between the new conquered territory, the Caribbean and Spain.
The colourful streets of the center immerse us in the history of this colonial city with important historical and cultural heritage.
We call the alleys under a burning sun discovering the main monuments.
For lunch we decide to eat in a fish restaurant by thr sea to cool down. No wind, a sea of oil and a rising temperature...too bad.
After the visit of the "Museo De Arquitectura Maya" gathering a collection of the Mayan vestiges of the region, we learn that the "Museo de la Culture Maya" which exhibits, among other things, the treasures of "Calakmul", is closed for repair.
It sounds like if all museums are being repaired in Mexico!!
It is 3 PM and the thermometer in the camper displays an outside temperature of 50°C and 41° C inside...
We decide to take an air-conditioned hotel room to cool our little bodies that are suffering from this heat.
Edzna
We leave the "Ruta Puuc" direction Campeche.
We make a short detour to visit "Edzna" magnificent Mayan site known as "La Casa de los Itzaes" name of a lineage of governors between AD 800 and 1 000 .
In this floodplain during the rainy season, the inhabitants are gradually building an ingenious system for capturing, storing and redistributing rainwater, through numerous canals that prevent flooding.
Quite different from other "Puuc" style sites, this very impressive archaeological site is surrounded by lush vegetation.
The most important constructions are located around the main square and each structure had a precise role.
* La Casa Grande (Nohochná): dedicated to administrative tasks.
* La Grande Acropole: houses 5 structures that include rooms and a sanctuary.
* The Temple of the Mascarons: dedicated to the Sun God.
* The small Acropole: with a lower part and 4 buildings forming a central courtyard.
We discover this site under heavy rain.... Our umbrellas and panchos are in a safe and dry place in the camper… !!!
We arrive in "Campeche" under a huge storm... In a few minutes, all the streets turn into torrents and the water rises, flooding the sidewalks.
We are only 350 m away from our bivouac but it is impossible to continue without flooding the engine.
We park the camper on an elevated sidewalk, waiting for the end of the flood.
In the late afternoon, we visit the historic centre without any precise goal and in the evening the "Malecon", enjoying a small sea breeze.
ROAD BOOK 060
MAVROS ODYSSEE
