Recife
We take the road to Récife where we want to spend the New Year’s Eve.
We cross a region of coconut groves and bamboo... splendid landscapes.
We are refueling since it is impossible to find "Common" diesel in the Reef district. Fortunately our Brazilian friends had warned us!!! We know we have to be careful not to drive too many kilometers.
We land at the edge of the 7 km long beach in "Boa Viagen" known for being the most chic part of the city.
After a visit to a supermarket and a shop "Tim " (our telephone operator) we prepare our stay.
It is very difficult to organize our future days, we are on the eve of a long weekend of festivities and we also have to juggle with the closing days of the various sites.
1st day: we will make only one visit "The Ricardo Brennard Intituto"
Located outside the city, it is a must-see museum. The Brennand family were wealthy owners of sugar cane fields and ceramic producers. The two members of the family, Francisco and his cousin Ricardo, passionate about art, wanted that everyone could enjoy their collections and own works of art.
The Ricardo Brennand Institute is located in a kind of medieval castle surrounded by lush vegetation. Several collections are exhibited: European and Brazilian art, weapons and decorative objects.
Day 2: Head to the historic city centre.
We borrow an Uber that drops us at the "Capela Dourada" and immediately we are surprised: all along the sidewalks, homeless people occupy the space. We find ourselves in a lifeless neighborhood.
We ask a soldier assigned to the courthouse where the "Capela Dourada", which is closed like all other monuments, is located . He asks us to be very vigilant with our belongings.
We will be happy to see the facades of the Governor’s Palace, the Palace of Justice and the Santa Isabel Theatre.
Two churches are open: Basilica Nossa Senhora do Carmo and Catedral Sao Pedro dos Clerigos.
Then we go to the Casa Da Cultura " installed in an old prison composed of three wings now converted into a souvenir shop.
We continue with the "Mercado Sao José": very lively popular market where it is difficult to circulate. It houses a hall of style "Baltard" not very well preserved.
At the exit of this maze of streets, Christophe was attacked. Without him knowing it, a guy ripped off his gold chain and violently threw Christophe on the ground. More fear than harm: Voltarène for sore wrist and left buttock.
This episode has cooled us down ... We quickly leave this area for the large luxury shopping mall where we will eat before returning to the camper.
3rd day: visit of the colonial city of "Olinda"
To avoid new inconveniences we leave without object that can attract robbers. It is not easy, since the beginning of our odyssey we never had a feeling of insecurity. But we are in Brazil and the recommendations are unanimous. No city escapes this scourge.
Olinda is a gem of colonial architecture. This city built on a hill has art galleries, museums and beautiful colonial buildings, all classified UNESCO.
As expected all monuments are closed, except the "Monasteiro and Basilica de Sao Bento" where we attend a mass punctuated by Gregorian chants.
Then we stroll through the small cobbled and steep streets before joining a great restaurant by the sea to celebrate the arrival of the new year
Back at the motorhome we are invited by our Brazilian neighbors for a small aperitif while waiting for the fireworks on the beach. In fact on this long beach, the city has planned 3 fireworks.
Well before midnight families or friends settle down with tables, chairs and coolers all along the beach.
As the new year passes, the three fireworks illuminate the sky for 15 minutes under applause.
We meet our Brazilian friends for a last drink....
Happy 2024
Coruripe
On the way we make a refueling trying to find a Christmas meal. It is difficult to organize a dinner that is out of the ordinary ....
On the menu: appetizer * roast pork * potatoes * cheese * apples ... a real treat
!
We land in a very nice and well structured campsite.
It is a pleasant seaside holiday to spend the X’mas.
We sympathize with a Brazilian couple speaking English which facilitates exchanges.
En route to Coruripe
Two more days to reach our next destination.
Initially we wanted to visit the "Parque National Da Serra De Capivra" a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1991.
It is home to one of the world’s greatest archaeological treasures. The latter consists of about 30,000 prehistoric inscriptions, the oldest of which date back more than 40,000 years.
In all, 300 archaeological sites have been discovered, consisting of rock paintings and engravings and very old artifacts.
Having found where to park next to the park, we get closer to the campsite to organize hikes.
As in other parks we need an English or French speaking guide and a means of transport to reach the various sites by dirt tracks.
The advertised prices being incredibly huge, at the limit of robbery, we renounce to visit it. In addition we save hundreds of kilometers to our companion.
Change of program: direction the sea and the coconut beaches.
However before arriving at the edge of the ocean, we are alerted by a noise in the engine. After checking, the left gimbal head looks defective. Fortunately we are in a major city and we find a garage.
It’s lunch time and the staff is on break.
During our misadventures in Bolivia, we bought two cardan heads and changed only one head on both. Fortunately because the mechanic does not have the part.
After 4 hours of waiting and repair we leave ... the noise persists .... Back to the garage .... revison ... nothing abnormal ....
We are not very confident but we must move forward.
We look forward to reachin the coconut trees.
Lençois
We have 150 km left before reaching the small town of Lençois located in the "Parque National Do Chapada Diamantina"
We drive on a main track that is poorly maintained and invaded by a horde of trucks.
On arrival we land at the campsite just before the rain, then we stroll towards the tourist office which discourages us on hikes to do around.
Apart from two waterfalls near the village, we must take a guide.
In addition he specifies that the main attraction the "Cachoeira de Fumaça" is located on the other side at 1 h 30 by car and that part of the road is dirt... Impassable with rain!!
We have the same version in the guides' office, and the amount announced is prohibitive. It is becoming a habit.
While waiting to make a decision we do a self-service laundry where we meet the owner who speaks English ... What a pleasure to be able to talk without a translator.
Quiet evening in pouring rain.
When we wake up, the sun is back and we decide to go see the "Sossego waterfall", a waterfall in the Brazilian rainforest that does not amaze us. To be positive, we have at least a 2 hours hike!!
A small city tour before the arrival of the rain that falls all night through.
On the way to Lençois
We are in the center of Brazil where the distances between two sites are vast both by the kilometers traveled and by the driving time.
Today we have the hard experience.
Just out of the village next to the park the asphalt road gives way to a dirt road ... It is indicated as a national on the road map!!
To perform 71 km it gtakes us 3 hours ... Hell at 20 k/h!!
We are still looking for gas and we end up buying a 13 kg Brazilian bottle that does not fit in the compartment provided.
We have to put it inside the camper and take it out to use it ... A real pleasure!!!
We land at a gas station where we are allowed to connect to electricity ... And this without paying!!
The next day we look for a hardware store to buy a 1.50 m gas hose to connect it to the existing one to put the gas bottle on the ground. Day on a tarmac network through a monotonous landscape and in the heat (38°).
Stop for the night, and we’re offered free electricity.
ROAD BOOK 168
MAVROS ODYSSEE
