Quirigua / Purulha
We leave this region without regret to join the region of "Verapaz" or "true peace".
On our way we stop at "Quirigua".
This Mayan site is remarkable for its huge steles, mostly carved on its four sides. The most imposing of them is 10.67 m. high and weighs 65 tons.
The city was founded at the end of the classic period.
Its art was strongly influenced by the Honduran city of "Copan": sculptures and glyphs on all sides, characters ..
We walk through this very well maintained site, surrounded by banana trees.
We reach our next stop through a winding mountain road, used by countless trucks.
The journey is long and tiring for the driver. The last kilometers are a hell, especially with the fog.
We arrive in late afternoon and the temperature drops down quickly.
We’re in the mountain : 1500 m !
Livingston
To reach this small village on the Caribbean Sea we have no other choice than to take a "lancha" to go up the river.
The inhabitants refuse to build a road.
We meet locals in canoes, wooden huts and even sublime villas with their luxury yachts ... Yes ! Americans are everywhere.
Then, the river narrows and from the first windings, the scenery changes.
High limestone cliffs form a canyon. Many birds nest in this jungle. Grey herons, pelicans, egrets.
Unfortunately for us the weather is bad. It’s raining and we have to put on our rain jackets to protect us ... not that great.
A majority of black descendants of African slaves live in Livingston.
These are the Garifunas, already met in Belize.
"Livingston" was founded in 1802 and was the only Guatemalan port on the Atlantic until the beginning of the 20th century, before giving way to "Puerto Barrios".
We did not like this little village. The atmosphere and the environment did not charm us ....Only the typical garifuna dish « the Tapado », that looks like our bouillabaisse in a coconut milk, enchanted us.
We return under a shy sun.
Rio Dulce
It takes us two days to reach "Rio Dulce".
" El Relleno-Fronteras "is the official name of this small village located at the birth of the Río Dulce. It presents itself as a "street-village".
It is lined with stalls, barracks, shops and workshops that overflow on the road ... no room for pedestrians. We need to squeeze between vehicles of all gabaries ... really not a pleasant place.
The only interest of this very dirty little town is its starting point to visit the town of "Livingston".
We find refuge in the marina.
ROAD BOOK 075
MAVROS ODYSSEE