Guatemala City
 
Nearly a third of the Guatemalan population is concentrated in the capital of the country, officially founded by the Spanish in 1776 to replace Antigua almost entirely destroyed after the huge  earthquake in 1773.
 
The Historical Centre of Guatemala Ciudad is not very big and does not have any major monuments.
 
We join the "Parque Central" where we are surprised to discover a Christmas market. Very different from our traditional chalets, the products exhibited there are essentially exotic
 
There is a skating rink and an ice rink for children’s enjoyment ... fun entertainment in the tropics.
 
We then visit:
 
* Museo Popol Vuh and Museo Ixchel which present a collection of the art of the Mayan civilization, but also many pieces of textiles from different regions of Guatemala ... we loved it.
 
* Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology: many artefacts from pre-Columbian civilizations untill the colonial period.
Guatemala City
 
Bad surprise this morning when we wake up, we discover on the carpet of the cabin a big stain ... to the touch it is not oil ...
 
Christophe controls all levels ... Nothing particular !!! Maybe a little loss of the cooling liquid.
 
We think it could come from the cabin heater circuit but the parts  are very difficult to disassemble.
 
It rained all night and the weather for the next few days is not optimistic.
 
We decide not to go higher to visit the caves of Lanquin as well as the waterfalls of "Semuc Champey". The access road is not paved and not recommended in case of bad weather.
 
We therefore reach the capital city where stands the only Fiat dealer in Guatemala.
 
The way back  is more pleasant without the long truck queue we had on the way in.. It is cold we turn the cabin heating  on keeping an eye on the heating box ... no leak!!!
 
We are welcomed at the Fiat workshop by a great team which cares for us immediately. It is not every day that a European vehicle comes to their place.
The foreman immediately predicts the problem ... The heating radiator has got a leak, but, of course,  he does not have the parts for our camper.
 
We learn how the heating works with a sketch and  he assures us that it has no effect on the engine ... We just have to check the level very regularly ... He can also shut down our heating system, which we refuse in anticipation of the future in South America.
 
We are reassured and plan to bring back the defective part when we return in May ... by then we should not need heating in the cabin very often.
Coban
 
This morning at 7:30 the guide knocks at the door to tell us that there is another "quetzal" next to us.
 
We dress quickly and join our host, armed with our binoculars and camera.
 
It is not one but two males ... sublime show ... what  a luck!!!
 
We are still as impressed as the day before.
 
Cherry on the cake, we also see two "toucans" who come scoffing at us ... Unforgettable day.
 
It is time to leave to head towards "Coban" the capital of the region by the same winding road. It is less complicated than the day before.
 
We stop at "Orquigonia" a private nature reserve specialized in the conservation and study of orchids.
 
We discover and learn a lot about the world of orchids. Here we’re given a magnifying glass to allow us to see the smallest flowers.
 
The town of "coban" does not offer us a secure bivouac so we join the coffee cooperative "Chicoj".
 
This cooperative includes producers from the community "kekchi".
 
A 2-hour visit explains the production methods as well as the history of coffee culture in Guatemala established by the Jesuits
 
In the 19th century a large German community owned coffee and cardamom plantations, but their support for the Nazi regime cost them extradition. Their plantations were reclaimed by the government and redistributed.
 
We are surprised to see children aged 7 to 8 carrying on their backs huge bags filled with coffee beans ...the explanation given: it’s school holidays and they help adults!! We are not convinced.
 
We end our tour with a  coffee tasting ... the preparation is quite a ceremonial.
Reserva Natural Ranchitos Del Quetzal
 
The Biotope Del Quetzal is one of the most renowned protected areas in Guatemala.
 
This vast park, covered with dense tropical vegetation is dedicated to the country’s symbol , the quetzal, but also houses many other bird species, including the toucan.
 
Several reservations allow you to discover this region and we choose the "Ranchitos Del Quetzal".
 
A 47 hectare private nature reserve  known for hosting quetzals thanks to the numerous trees that grow and feed these birds.
 
On our arrival, the guided tour had already left and we  would have to wait until early afternoon to eventualy join in the next round.
 
This won’t happen ... 30 minutes after our arrival the guide is back,  excited, and he shows us in the trees our first "quetzal".
 
It’s taking us a while to find him.
 
It is a female ...a huge moment of happiness and emotion ... we stay an hour in her company before she disappears.
 
We’re very lucky. Sometimes you cant wait  see this magnificent bird for weeks.
 
It is difficult to make good shots ...The quetzal is often perched at the top of the trees, against the light, and its green plumage is hard to see in the foliage ... one must be extremely patient.
 
We decide to sleep there, the bivouac of the previous day being too noisy.
 
The afternoon takes place between a small hike and the site update.
 
Small anecdote : we have dinner at the restaurant on site ... meal served at
6 PM.!!!
ROAD BOOK 076
MAVROS ODYSSEE