Ayacucho
For several centuries, from about 900 to 1200, the Wari-Tiahuanaco empire stretches over the entire region and its capital is located near the present Ayacucho.
The first Spanish settlers arrived in the area in 1532 and in April 1540 the conquistador Francisco Pizzaro founded the city, which he then called San Juan de la Victoria.
Its purpose is to serve as a relay between the cities of Lima and Cusco. Quickly, the city changed its name to Huamanga.
The battle of Ayacucho took place in 1824. It pits the soldiers of Peru’s last king, José Laserna, against the separatists, led by Antonio José de Sucre. The latter won, marking a great step towards Peru’s independence.
The city changed its name again in 1825 and was renamed Ayacucho by Simon Bolivar, in reference to the battle that ended Spanish oppression.
From the 1980s to the 1990s, the city saw the emergence and expansion of the « Shining Path », an extremist group that caused many unrest in Peru.
This endearing city has 33 churches and is famous for the festivities that take place during Holy Week.
We go directly to the tourist office where we are given brochures from different regions that we visit.
We start the recommended circuit by:
* Plaza de Armas: one of the most beautiful squares in the Andes, flanked by many beautiful houses.
* Catedral: This spectacular 17th century cathedral houses a museum of religious art. Inside there is a gold-leaf altar in baroque-churrigueresque style and ten altarpieces (statues placed in boxes and placed behind the first altars).
Most of the churches are closed, we just admire the facades.
However, we have the chance to visit the Iglisia San Domingo in private. A local historian opens the doors... Super interesting; we even went up to the roof !!!
After a very pleasant lunch on the terrace, we do some shopping under a very present sun and return to our camper that we parked in the parking lot of the airport for more security
On our way to Ayacucho
We have 230 km to travel to reach "Ayacucho".
We are in the Andes mountains at 3,500 m on average and of course we take the mountain roads, so they are winding, steep and narrow, which lengthens the journey time.
To our delight in Peru the roads climb slowly.
A tarred road connects the two towns and this splendid route climbs up the foothills of the mountains, then descends into a valley along a river crossing hamlets of all sizes to Lircay
.
We arrive in this city and get informed that the rest of the road is only a one way lane.
We have 127 km to reach our destination. What do we do? Continue the road or turn around? The explanations of the residents are not clear, except on the narrowness of the road.
We decide to continue and see.
Indeed the road is narrow and a few km later we face a truck... Don’t panic, everyone is on his side and it works ... phew !!!
We ask the driver about the condition of the road and he confirms that it is asphalt and narrow.
You continue while looking away the coming of a vehicle in the opposite direction and at each turn without visibility we honk ... A real pleasure.
However, the beauty of the landscapes we travel through largely offset our stress and we climb up to 4,516 m.
This is an opportunity to see our first alpacas grazing quietly at over 4,000 m.
After several hours of driving since the morning we stop in a small village in the middle of the afternoon.
The night is very quiet and we continue our route always in the heart of splendid panoramas.
Before arriving at our destination, we make a small detour to explore the site of the "Ruinas de Wari"
Capital of the eponymous empire that preceded the Incas of five centuries and occupies a beautiful peaceful location on top of a hill. The buildings are in uncut stone. Too bad there is no explanation.
We arrive in Ayacucho where once again the possibilities of parking are non-existent; finally we find refuge near the airport and an army barracks.
Huancavelica
Quiet night in this small village.
As usual we take our time to start and reach "Huancayo" which has not a great interest except two or three monuments, but during holy week there are some festivities to discover.
We park near la plaza de armas and ask the two policemen present if we can spend the night there. No problem, it is a safe neighborhood, not much space but in the late afternoon there will be more room.
We do not find the neighborhood so welcoming and look for more than two hours for a guardedand open overnight parking that allows us to sleep in our camper. Impossible mission ; we decide to continue our route towards Huancavelica.
The landscapes are beautiful and the winding road is not in such a bad condition, but filled with "Tope."
We cross a pass more than 4,500 m. high in altitude before descending to 3,682 m.
We found a drop-off point not far from the city center and next to the police station ... It’s becoming a habit !!!
We make a small tour of the city by stopping at the tourist office where we are welcome by two young girls of the tourist police who make their best to describe their city.
The city of "Huancavelica" was populated by the Waris, then by the Chancas. Finally, the site was integrated into the Inca Empire, to become a military center. Later, the Spaniards discovered silver and mercury deposits, which prompted them to settle there. Currently, the city retains its mansions and magnificent colonial churches.
We stay there two days, it is the last weekend of Holy Week.
The first night is terrible ... A group of young alcoholics party all night on the church square a few meters from the camper ... Sleepless night for Christophe !!!
We attend the procession of the Santa Ana church with its crosses covered with embroidered fabrics.
Then we criss-cross this town to explore :
* Plaza de Armas: Very beautiful, at the foot of the high, tormented peaks, surrounded by houses of the 16th century "casonas" style, with its stocky arcades.
* Catedral: Built in 1633 in Baroque style. Inside many altarpieces and a leaf gilded altar.
* Iglesia San Sebastian: This baroque church dates from 1662. Its altarpiece, pulpit and central altar are leaf gilded.
It is market day and the city is invaded by vendors installed on the sidewalks offering various and varied goods.
We take the opportunity to fill our bag with fresh vegetables and fruits.
The second night is quieter and we can recover
ROAD BOOK 144
MAVROS ODYSSEE