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Catedral de Sal
We leave this place of silence to join "Zipaquira" where the "Catedral de Sal" is nestled.
We have to go back on the main axis and take the terrible road to reach the village of Raquira to which we didn’t pay attention on the way up, so much focusing our attention on driving.
Raquira is the pottery capital of Colombia. Its inhabitants have been working clay since pre-Columbian times, and this tradition is still very strong today.
There are plenty of workshops and colorful facades decorated with crafts that make the charm of the main street. The facades are decorated with “frescoes” alluding to the ancient Muisca peoples who lived there before.
We arrive in Zipaquira in the early afternoon and settle in the parking lot of the cathedral where we will spend the night.
In the mountains of Zipaquirá, in central Colombia, salt deposits were mined as early as the fifth century, by means of tunnels, and constitute a major economic activity of the region.
Carved in salt mines, this monumental sanctuary is a maze dedicated to the Stations of the Cross, bathed in blue and purple lights.
In 1954, the first cathedral was built on the walls of the mountain, then a new cathedral, with safety standards and a much more ambitious program, was erected in 1995, at a depth of 180 metres.
Construction took place over 4 years, during which nearly 250,000 tonnes of salt rock were extracted
To enter a classical cathedral, the visitor passes the porch before venturing into the nave. Here, one accesses it by an entrance tunnel dug into the mountain.
Carved in the rock, the 14 stations of Calvary lead to a dome from which one can observe a cross of 16 meters in bas-relief.
La Candelaria
Our day is dedicated to two monasteries or "convento".
* Monasterio del Santo Eccehomo: This monastery is a convent nestled in the middle of the Boyacá countryside. It embodies the culture of the Dominicans, present in the region since the 17th century.
It was founded in 1620 by Juan de Mayorga Casallas.
In its early days, it served as a centre of evangelization, a nursing home and medical care for the elderly.
In 1816, the Dominicans were expelled from their convent by Spanish troops. The place of recollection then passed from hand to hand before being recovered by the Dominicans in 1868.
This convent is a large stone and adobe construction with a beautiful courtyard. The ground is paved with stones extracted in the region. The chapel houses a magnificent gilded altarpiece decorated with a small image of the Ecce Homo. It offers a relaxing setting thanks to a flowery patio and beautiful arcades with columns.
The second is difficult to access on the last kilometers ... Crossing a steep village and the road gives us cold sweats.
On arrival we ask permission to spend the night in the parking lot of the monastery.
The visit of this one is guided by a "Brother" passionate and humorist, which enchants us.
* Monasterio de La Candelaria: Located in a desert plain, the convent was founded in 1604 by Brother Mateo Delgado, Philip II’s doctor, who died at the age of 105.
It is the first monastery of the "Augustinian Recollet" order on the continent.
The church and the former cell of Brother Delgado are very rich with religious art objects. The 17th century gilded wooden altarpiece is a work of Francisco del Pozo from the Florentine school. In the centre is a magnificent painting of Our Lady of Candelaria.
The convent is also rich in 18th century religious paintings from the Quito school.
Quiet night under the benevolence of Saint Augustine
Villa de Leyva
Before arriving at "Villa de Leyva" we make a detour to visit "Nabso", a village famous for the manufacture of ponchos ... nothing extraordinary.
We look for a campsite for two or three days and we have the choice.
The first one is not very welcoming so we continue our route, the second is non-existent and the third is the good one: camping "San José"... finally a real campsite with European standards.
We spend the first day resting, sorting out the photos and films, writing the road books and enjoying the good weather.
The campsite is filling up, it’s Saturday and the people of Bogota come to spend the weekend.
The second day is devoted to the discovery of the city, the time is gloomy.
"Villa de Leyva" is located in the eastern mountain range of the Andes, at an altitude of 2,149 meters. It seduces us with its paved streets, whitewashed walls, wooden doors and flowered balconies.
Founded in 1572, the city has preserved its colonial architecture. It was declared a National Monument of Colombia in 1954. Here reigns an atmosphere of tranquility, far from the hustle and bustle of the city.
* Plaza Mayor : 14,000 m2, one of the largest paved squares in the country. In the centre is a small Mudéjar fountain. During the Spanish Reconquest in the 1810s, gallows were erected here and many rebels were hanged.
* Luis Alberto Acuña Museo : The painter and sculptor Luis Alberto Acuña (1904-1994), one of the first muralists in Colombia, was clearly influenced by Picasso’s work and by pre-Columbian art. Installed in a beautiful house that presents nearly 250 artefacts.
* Parish of Nuestra Señora del Rosario : Facing the main square it was built in 1608. The interior is simple, with the exception of the wonderful baroque altarpiece.
* Museo del Carmen : it is housed in the convent of the same name. Small collection of paintings, sculptures, altarpieces and other religious objects dating from the 16th century.
Our campsite is located in the hollow of a valley about 20 minutes walk from the city centre. Barely out, a car stops and offers to drive us there ... super nice.
We discover quietly this pedestrian village where it is difficult to walk in the alleys with huge cobblestones and invaded by people.
On the way we taste one of the local specialities: the "Milhojas" a thousand leaves in caramel!!!
The third day we visit a curiosity of the surroundings.
* Casa Terracota : Designed by Colombian architect Octavio Mendoza. It is built with clay taken directly from the site and cooked at high temperature. The result is an eco-friendly house with anti-seismic properties, waterproof and a pleasant temperature.
On the way back we meet two Argentinian motorhomes ... a pleasant moment to exchange our experiences and promised to stop at their place at "Mar Del Plata".
ROAD BOOK 120
MAVROS ODYSSEE
